A featherectomy

A few months ago I taught a “Goldwork with Colour” course at our local adult education centre, and you may remember that the stitched models for that course were, shall we say, a little late in appearing. With hindsight this turned out to be a good thing, as it meant I could stitch along with the students, who could see the projects in progress. However, it also meant that the designs, apart from the small Precious Heart, languished half-finished after the course ended. Finishing things for the sake of finishing has never been high on my list of priorities, but these were goldwork, and it seemed a shame to let all those nice materials go to waste. So once I got the magazine deadline and my canvaswork out of the way, I settled down to completing a snowdrop, a forget-me-not and a peacock.

The snowdrop at the end of the course The forget-me-not at the end of the course The peacock during the course

Not to overload you with goldwork (although there are worse things to be overloaded with) I’ll concentrate on the peacock today, and come back to the flowers in future FoFs – as I started this one I realised there was more to tell about these projects than I thought at first!

The peacock was the third and final project of the course, and from the start its tail was meant as an opportunity for the students to apply what they’d learnt about goldwork in their own way. They all did more or less the same thing on the body (appliquéd faux leather – choice of two colours – outlined in couched white opalescent 371 thread, silk shaded beak, chips for the head feathers, bead plus spangle – choice of gold or silver – for the eye) and the tail’s outline (more couched 371 thread, with a choice of colours for the three scalloped lines inside the tail), which got them to the stage shown above. They were then given a choice of metallic kid leathers, hollow purls, beads and more 371 thread and told to get on with it and have fun. And boy did they have fun smiley.

The students let their creativity rip!

I did work two of the tail feathers during the course, to demonstrate how to apply kid leather over padding, but I didn’t take pictures of that stage. Suffice it to say that’s what the tail still looked like a month or two later, when I finally got round to adding a few more: one with cutwork mixing a fine rough purl and a coarse wire check, with some metallic stem stitch around it to smooth out the edges, and one with chipping in two shades of rough purl using longer and slightly more wiggly chips than usual.

Tail feathers in leather, cutowrk and chipping

But what next? I’d already got kid appliqué, cutwork and chipping, and I didn’t fancy more couching. In a corner of my box of goldwork odds and ends I found some silver sadi check, an Indian goldwork thread much like bright check but bigger, and I combined that with “sprinkles” of rough purl. For the next feather, slightly against my better judgment, I decided on beads in a mixture of two greens and two blues.

Tail feathers in mixed chipping and beads

Right away I realised it wasn’t a good choice. The beads were very irregular, so difficult to pack in densely, and the whole look of the thing was just not, well, goldworky enough. Time for a featherectomy.

Brief digression about that term – I came across the word years ago in a piece of writing by the journalist James Cameron, describing a visit paid by King George and Queen Elizabeth (later the Queen Mother) to a South African ostrich farm during their royal tour in 1947. I’ve always loved the story so this is a good opportunity to share it. Cameron noted the very different personalities of the King and Queen, highlighted when the King was given a pair of clippers to cut a feather from one of the ostriches, which were bred for their plumage. “The King fumbled the operation and his tweezers nicked a quarter inch off the ostrich’s backside, at which the unlucky bird made a fearsome screeching hullabaloo from which we all retreated in terror. Enter the Queen, stage right, as usual in total smiling command. She took the clippers from her husband and there and then did an absolutely expert featherectomy. Snip!” She explained to Cameron, who happened to be standing near her, “We do a lot of gardening at home in the Palace. The King is good at the digging and the weeding. It is I who concentrate on the secateurs.”

Good to know that pruning skills come in handy if you are ever called on to collect some ostrich plumes. In my case, the offending peacock plume quickly succumbed to my small pointy scissors, ready to be transformed into something else. Because I had as yet no idea what to transform it into, I concentrated on the other remaining feather. I hadn’t consciously set out to create a certain colour pattern, but it now looked like a good idea to keep the three middle feathers in a turquoise/silver palette while doing the ones on the outside in purples and pinks. Not having any brilliant ideas I went for couching after all, combining lilac and pink 371 thread in what I hoped would be a two-tone spiral. Unfortunately the difference isn’t really visible in the finished article, but colourwise it still works so that was fine. For the remaining feather I dug out some dark blue-green twist, which I attached with invisible couching stitches (they are worked on the diagonal and disappear between the strands that make up the twist), leaving a gap in the middle to create a sort of yolk (they do look rather egg-shaped, don’t they?) of sadi chipping.

The tail feathers completed

And that completed the peacock. Well, in as far as a project like this is ever finished; you could easily keep adding bits and pieces until the entire tail is filled, but I have other projects to move on to – I am setting up the slate frame for my Silk Shading module!

The finished peacock

Did I say “finished”…?

In my celebratory FoF last Saturday I mentioned that in going through my close-up photographs, choosing illustrations, I’d noticed a missing stitch. Yesterday afternoon, replete with chicken pie and a friend’s delicious homemade lemon ice cream, I decided to put the missing stitch in. And that would be that! Except it wasn’t. Part of this, I fully admit, was just me being fussy. And at some point I will have to stop fussing or I will never get this mounted! But here is what happened.

Having shown off my finished-but-for-one-stitch canvaswork to the friends who’d come round for lunch I re-clamped it into the Lowery stand which for the past couple of days had held my or nué snowdrop, and got out the thread box containing a few left-over threads from my three-year project. Why I kept those few straggly bits of green, brown and blue in the small box destined for my silk shading colours after putting all the canvaswork threads back into their usual storage boxes I do not know, but I was very grateful for my eccentric decision as it meant I didn’t have to hunt through half the craft room to get the right threads. Time to take a close look at the missing stitch and decide what blend was needed. It was then that I noticed More Missing Stitches shocked emoji.

Missing stitches

Ignore the purple arrow for the moment, I’ll come back to that one. The orange arrow points to the stitch I noticed when writing the previous FoF. The yellow arrow points to another incomplete stitch which had managed to remain unnoticed. Or – I am inclined to overthink these things – had it been a design decision to leave that stitch without its top cross? Would I ruin the entire look of the thing by completing it? As I couldn’t remember it being a conscious decision the best thing seemed to complete it with the same blend as the other stitch, although in the end I did go for a three-quarter cross rather than the full cross as I didn’t want to cover up too much of the leather tree trunk.

Adding stitches All done!

Back to that purple arrow. It points to a stitch that was one of the last ones to be worked; it is slightly isolated, it needed only the top cross, in the photograph it shows as a light green part of the tree, and I happened to have in my needle a remnant of the light green wool I’d used for the more textured stitches a little lower down. I added some blue and worked the top cross. And although I didn’t mention it in FoF, or even admit it to myself, it bothered me every time I looked at it. It is blobby. It is fluffy. It is wrong. And I might as well do something about it. So I did. I unpicked the top cross, which fortunately wasn’t attached to any other stitches, and re-did it in a blend without wool. It is still a little chunky, but it blends in much better with its surroundings.

A blobby stitch The blobby stitch unpicked Restitched a little less blobbily

And so now I’m really done. Really. No more fussiness. Unless perhaps to re-do that stitch once more to make it less chunky… No! No, really done now. Look: the finished piece. At last smiley.

Really really finished Absolutely done

Blue sky thinking, strutting my stuff and trimming a hedge

Spoiler alert – yes, after well over three years my Canvaswork is finally finished! Bar the mounting, which with canvas is a challenge in itself and will be part of the assessment; but although I will of course do my best to do it as neatly as possible, to me it doesn’t feel like part of the embroidery. That, the part that counts, is done.

You may remember that the previous FoF ended with most of the sky filled in, but the remaining tree as yet just an understitched grid, and me not able to see how it was going to work.

Nearly there...

And so once again I looked for things to do that would help me avoid The Tree (which in my mind was beginning to take on Triffid-like qualities). The sky was the obvious thing. I’d noticed that there should have been some lighter blue blended into the section between the two top sails of the mill – there was some on either side of those sails, but none in that particular area, which looked like an oversight. Well, it was an oversight! I amended it by sneakily overstitching with a single strand of the second shade of blue; it may seem a little thing and hardly worth doing, but those few stitches make it look much more part of the rest of the sky.

Unblended sky Added blending

On to the last remaining bit of sky; here the change from blend to blend had to be a little more abrupt in places, where the sky in the original photograph had some hazy white across the blue.

Blends prepared for the remaining sky Blending the sky The sky completed

The only way I could avoid the tree any longer was by doing the overstitching on the mill, but I felt I really ought to cover the whole canvas first before doing those final details, so I gave myself a good talking to and got on with it. I started at the top using blue blended with brown to represent the branches showing through. After a few stitches it became clear that the blend was too thick and too brown, so they were unpicked and restitched. I blended a little green into the uprights of the foundation crosses, then more in the horizontals. That’s where I’d got to when my next class came round, where, rather surprisingly, it was just me and tutor Angela Bishop; a lovely surprise to begin the new year with, having a one-to-one class with the tutor who stood at the beginning of much of my RSN journey! We discussed initial ideas for Silk Shading, and then I got on with the tree. One of the things I’ve learnt during this module is to work like a painter, not charting but mxing and blending as I go, and on the whole I’m pleased with how that worked on this last tree.

The blend is too thick and too dark Working in the greens The foundation stitches finished The complete tree

Surely now it was time to get on with the mill? Well, no. I was keen to work on it, having discussed the various parts of it with Angela, but there were a few tweaks I wanted to put in first. One was the bush between the orange roof and the tree – the photograph had some dark bits in it which I hadn’t reproduced in the blends I used. So I sneaked a strand of dark into some of the foundation crosses of the Smyrna stitches; it’s almost imperceptible, and definitely difficult to show in a photograph, but like the added sky blending stitches it makes a difference when looked at from a distance. I also smoothed out the edge between the sky and the tree by lengthening some of the blue stitches and adding some small blue/green blended partial star stitches where the canvas wasn’t quite covered.

The bush needs some more dark in it The bush darkened and the edge between sky and tree smoothed

By the way, looking at the close-up pictures while writing this FoF I noticed a missing top half cross on one of the star stitches. Good thing it’s still framed up so I can put that in before mounting!

Anyway, yes, finally it’s time for the mill: the struts and balustrade of the gallery, and the sails consisting of the four wooden beams and the lattice. In order to simplify the design to make it more suitable for canvaswork I had decided after discussion with the tutors to leave out the sheets half-covering the sails, and the big beams sticking out from behind the cap. For the struts and balustrade I wanted to use perle #12 in white, but both Angela and I felt that it needed at least one other shade, probably a light grey. Going through my stash at home I found I didn’t have a grey, but I did have a cream and a pale greyish lavender, as well as some 12-weight Sulky threads. In the end I picked white and lavender perle and a grey Sulky. Angela had suggested securing the long struts by means of a stitch in the middle, worked in the invisible manner of attaching twist in goldwork, but when I had completed the struts I really liked the look of them attached only top and bottom, because it gives a more 3D effect than having them anchored in the middle, however invisibly; I’ll add a comment about that to the assessment notes I have to hand in, to show that it was a considered decision, not an oversight! The balustrade used the same three shades as the struts, except for the uprights which show up really bright in the photograph, so they were all done in white.

Possible threads for the struts and balustrade Ensuring equal distances between the struts The struts completed The balustrade completed

For the sails I pulled white ribbon through the canvas at the beginning and end of each beam. Angela had suggested couching with one or two stitches in thin silk along each side, but I remembered an idea I’d had earlier: why not secure the ribbon with the stitches making up the lattice? I did that and found that it pulled the ribbon to one side, so added a few stitches to the other edge of the ribbons after all. Getting the lattices reasonably regular was a very fiddly job (my first attempt was far too narrow and had to be unpicked), especially using a fine filament silk which snags on everything, but it did help that I had simplified it to have only two lines along the length of the sail instead of three as in the photograph.

Attaching the ribbon sails Securing the ribbons at the back of the work The first lattice is too narrow The mill completed

And that was all the stitching done! Now all that was left was some hedge trimming. In order to minimise the amount of fluff attaching itself to my stitching an old, torn pillow case was given an additional, custom-sized hole, and I was ready to get snipping. This was done very very gradually, because as we all know you can’t un-cut. I tried to do some shaping as well so that the bush on the left ended up with a higher pile on one side that on the other. Finally the immediate surroundings of the bushes were carefully dabbed with scotch tape wound around a finger to clear any stray bits of fluff – mustn’t leave any for the assessors to spot!

A protective sheet around the bush Gradual trimming The fully trimmed bushes Sticky tape has removed residue fluff

So here it is, my Canvaswork finished (apart from that one stitch I missed and will need to add, grrr). Because the light direction makes quite a difference to the look of the piece, here are two photographs for you to blend in your mind into one picture smiley

The finished piece, lit from the left The finished piece, lit from the top

Whatever the assessment is going to be, I’m happy with what I’ve produced in a technique I had not previously tried, and to which I did not take naturally. It’s been an interesting experience which has taught me a lot. I look forward to seeing what I will learn in the Silk Shading module.

So near and yet… a tree

The last time I updated you on my RSN Certificate Canvaswork module was back in August, when I had finished the bottom half of the design, a bit of mill, and the bottom layer of the rice stitches one day to become a light and airy tree. Oh, and some trunks. What has happened in the intervening four and a half months?

The state of my Canvaswork last August

Well, for one thing I removed the lasso that was holding the Turkey rug bushes on the left out of the way, as there is no more stitching to do on the bottom half, and if anything I now needed to push them down so I could work on the stitching above it. But that side of the design would come later – first there was the mill and the right-hand tree. I started with the door, which, you may remember, had some threshold trouble. Because of the way the paving was stitched, it was impossible to create a neat bottom edge just by using vertical stitches, so on the advice of the tutor I reworked it with shorter stitches and then worked a horizontal stitch over the bottom. My first attempt used the holes at the bottom of the stitches making up the edges of the door, forgetting that the pull of the stitch would make it look too short. Unpick and work it one hole either side of the door and yes, that looked better.

The door with a short threshold stitch The door with a long threshold stitch

More mill then – the bottom half, worked using the same thick soft cotton as the top half, in straight and slanted split gobelin stitch in four shades of brick. A small window and what looks like a white poster were added as well, with details like the window frame to be added later with thinner thread.

The bottom half of the mill in soft cotton

At this point I was alternating between mill and tree, partly because both were scary – the mill because I hadn’t really thought yet what to do about the cap, which has quite a bit of detail in it, and the tree because I couldn’t quite see how to recreate the airy look with the top half of the rice stitches. Still, it had to be done at some point, so I decided on a painterly approach: lots of needles threaded with a variety of blends, the photograph next to the bit of canvas I’m working on, and use whatever blend looks most suitable for each stitch. It took a while, and as always with canvaswork the painterly style is distinctly Impressionist, but a light and airy tree it is.

The light and airy tree complete Stitched and photographed tree side by side

Back to the mill, specifically the sails. It is the nature of the technique that you can’t get absolutely every detail in without getting overly fussy, and one of the design decisions has been to leave out the fabric that partly covers the sails of the mill. What is left is the four wooden “arms” and the lattice attached to each one of these, all of which will be stitched on top of a background of mostly sky. In my sampling I had stitched a foundation of white tent stitches on which the ribbon for the wooden arms would sit, and I decided to put that foundation in so that I would be able to work the sky all around that and still see where the sails should go.

Sampling the sails Sail foundation stitches

Now I could make a start on the sky, working from right to left. With Kathryn I had worked out a rough guide to where the colour changes and the stitch transitions were going to be, and because so far I had only sampled the three sky stitches in white perle cotton she asked me to do a sample in the blue Caron silks I’d be using on the real thing, to work out coverage. Then I put together the blends I intended to use – although the five Caron blues I picked make up a series, the three middle ones are very close together in shade while there is quite a gap between them and the darkest and lightest shades, so I couldn’t just change from one to another (some of the lighter blends also include a fuzzy white thread to mimic the hazy clouds). After that it was finally time to put in the first of the stitches that will make up one of the main features of the design, that bright blue sky.

Sky stitches sampled in blue silk The start of the sky

There are many challenges in that sky: the colour changes have to be gradual; the transitions from horizontal Milanese stitch to Hungarian grounding to Parisian stitch must not be abrupt, but with bits of one pattern extending into the next to prevent clear demarcation lines; the sky stitches should blend into the stitches of the elements they surround in a natural way. That last one is especially important when it comes to the two trees, as the stitches used in them are either made up entirely of diagonal elements (rice stitch, in the right-hand tree) or have a strong diagonal component (star stitch, in the as yet non-existent left-hand tree), while the sky stitches are all horizontal. Once or twice I found that I had to lengthen a sky stitch to encroach into the tree stitches, but eventually the right-hand tree was completely encased in sky and looking very comfortable!

Sky down the right-hand side of the tree Too straight a demarcation line The sky snuggles up to the tree A fully sky-encased tree

In between bits of sky Kathryn and I also looked at the bush on the left-hand side, above the two buildings and behind the main tree. I didn’t want to use more Turkey rug stitch as that would bring it forward too much, so I wondered about French knots like the hedge on the right. Kathryn felt that the area was too big for French knots and suggested an upright stitch with some texture to it, worked in the same threads as the Turkey rug bushes. Looking through my big canvaswork book I picked alternating smyrna stitch to sample, liked the look of it, and worked the bush with a bit of blue blended into the mix where the sky shines through the greenery. Some of the stitches are a bit too light compared to the photograph but I like the effect so I’m leaving them as they are.

A bush in alternating smyrna stitch

Back to the mill to add the gallery and the cap. The latter took me a few goes to get right, because at first it looked too chunky and I couldn’t work out how to get in the detail I wanted without doing the whole thing in tent stitch, but eventually some small overstitches did the trick.

The mill gallery The mill cap The mill cap with added details

After that, more sky. And more sky. And yet more sky. Anything to avoid having to work on that big tree on the left. I knew it would have couched leather trunks and foliage in star stitch, but whenever I contemplated actually stitching it my brain seemed to shut down. I decided to at least try and get those trunks done, and wonder of wonders, the trimmed-down leather thong (once used to hold together a set of leather coasters that were a present from a friend in Kenya) held down with irregular couching stitches in beige-brown blends of stranded cotton actually looks like a pair of tree trunks!

Leather tree trunks

With a certain desperation I started getting all the blends for the tree ready, in the hope that inspiration would strike. It didn’t. I decided on more sky. Strictly speaking you should work foreground elements before the background, and I’ve stuck to that fairly well, but Helen McCook had advised me to work some horizontal sky stitches inside the tree area to make sure it blended in well, and my excuse was that I had to make sure the pattern of the sky was continuous. Counting all the way from the blue on the right-hand side was obviously fraught with risk, so I compromised by working a thin line of sky along the top and then down along the left-hand side of the tree-that-wasn’t-there-yet.

Blends for the final tree Sky around the tree

I then ventured into some star stitches, only to find that they didn’t cover the canvas properly. A quick look at my sample cloth reminded me that it needed understitching which I hadn’t done. So I unpicked what I’d done, did the understitching in the blue blends I had prepared, and will add an extra strand to them for the upright crosses that form the foundation of the star stitches.

A few star stitches that don't cover the canvas properly The understitching complete

Still reluctant to get on with the foliage I stitched, yes, some more sky. I had noticed that my blending on the right-hand side was not as gradual as I would have liked – there is distinct banding. Not enough for me to unpick the whole thing smiley, but on the left-hand side I’m paying more attention to this, introducing new blends gradually and alternating stitches in two blends on any transition line.

Improved blending in the sky

And that’s where I am at the moment. My aim was to get the sky and that tree filled in before my next class, using our time off over Christmas and the new year. As the business has now re-opened and my next class is less than a week away, that may prove too ambitious, but I’m hoping for a productive Saturday. After that, all (haha…) that is left to do is trim the Turkey rug bushes, do the top stitching on the mill, and mount the work ready for assessment. And then on to Silk Shading!

Nearly there...

Stitching: The Next Generation

A Happy New Year to you all! And what better way to start a new year than by getting young people stitching? Last November/December I taught a metalwork embroidery course in Rugby, and for the first class I designed a small project to familiarise the (grown-up) students with the basic techniques of couching, plunging, chipping and attaching spangles. That went very well, with all of them creating a very personal version of the little copper heart within the 2-hour class time (although some of them added some finishing touches at a later date). I was seriously impressed with them!

The grown-up students' versions of the little copper heart

By then I had worked a couple of variations myself, one in copper like the students (see if you can spot where I missed a stitch…) and one in silver, and I was inspired to re-invent the little heart as a stand-alone project. I called it Precious Heart, and envisaged it as a combination of the original copper with silver and gold spangles. To me it would be a representation of the Trinity, with the reddish copper standing for the sacrifice of Jesus, the silver for the Holy Spirit and the gold for God who is King as well as Father. That version exists only on paper as yet, but I hope to stitch it soon.

Precious Heart in copper on ivory faux suede Precious Heart in silver on grey ultrasuede Precious Heart in three metals, drawing

Incidentally, stitching the first model I used a different colour sewing thread from the one I normally use with copper metals, because Sarah de Rousset-Hall had told me at the Knitting & Stitching Show that she always used brown rather than orange with copper, and saying that Sarah knows her goldwork is a bit of an understatement! Off to the Barnyarns stand I went to get a reel of brown Gutermann Sew All thread, but I wasn’t absolutely sure I liked it. Another Sarah, whose Golden Hinde stand was nearby, lent me some copper passing to take to the Barnyarns stand, where the gentleman in charge helped me match various Gutermann browns, oranges and coppers to the metal thread (really, stitchy people are too kind for words). I ended up purchasing Sarah de R-H’s brown plus a more chestnutty colour, and after using Sarah’s brown for the heart I worked a little couching experiment where the three different thread colours were used close together for comparison. The result? I prefer the chestnutty brown (middle) to both Sarah’s brown (closest to the heart) and my original orange (outer edge), so that’s what I’ll use in future.

Copper passing couched in three colours

You may wonder if I’m ever going to get to the young people I mentioned. Yes I am – it’s time to introduce you to my three guinea pigs! You see, as my adult students did so well completing the heart within two hours, I thought that besides turning it into a kit I might be able to offer it as a workshop at the Knitting & Stitching Show. The form for submitting workshops has a tick box to say whether they are suitable for children/young people, and I will only tick that box if a workshop has been tried out on one or more stitchers of tender years. Rather frighteningly my original guinea pig is now in her 20s, so I needed some new victims! I found them in three brave youngsters from our church, a 12-year-old (and her 37-year-old mother who was also interested in trying out metalwork embroidery), a 13-year-old (for whom I stitched a lockdown birthday card when she was 9) and her 10-year-old brother (the recipient of Septimus the Septopus). Time to get all my materials together – always an exciting part of workshop preparations! Halfway through those preparations the resident feline took up her position as well, ready to oversee proceedings.

The workshop materials Set-up (with tea) Set-up (with cat)

Everyone was given a piece of faux suede with the design drawn on, hooped up with backing fabric; sewing thread in three colours; a little velvet board; copper passing, bright check and wire check; and gold and silver spangles. There were also two non-goldwork bits: a piece of faux leather and a pair of magnets, for those who wished to turn their little heart into a brooch (as modelled here by Mr Mabel).

Precious Heart finished as a brooch

We started with a quick run-through of what we were going to do, and they all had a chance to take a closer look at the two models. By this time my boy guinea pig was beginning to look a little worried, but fortunately the middle girl reminded him (which I had meant to start by doing, but forgot) that this was a workshop to find out whether it was suitable for children their age, and that therefore it didn’t matter if they couldn’t do it. I couldn’t have put it better myself. Having been thus reassured, they set to their task undaunted (well, mildly daunted at most) and with fierce concentration. Needles unthreaded themselves, a few spangles made a bid for freedom, and some wire check got stretched before I could say “be careful not to stre… ah.” No matter, they were doing metalwork embroidery, and doing it very well!

The guinea pigs are concentrating Cutting, couching, threading

When setting an age limit for my workshops I tend to say “suitable for children 12 years and older”, which meant it was always going to be challenging for the 10-year-old guinea pig, and he did occasionally get a bit frustrated, saying, “I’m so bad at this” – but he cheered up when I told him that in the Middle Ages people would have to go through a 7-year apprenticeship to learn goldwork, and here he was doing jolly well after about an hour and a half of tuition smiley.

Now I’m sure you’d like to see what they produced! And I wish I had better pictures to show you; but I’d left my camera on the wrong setting, so they are all rather blurry. Still, they do show that each of them made their little heart their own. They all worked the passing outline, after which I showed them how to do chipping and attach spangles and told them to go and do whatever they liked – and this is what they liked:

The 10-year-old's heart The 12-year-old's heart The 13-year-old's heart The 37-year-old's heart

They were all very proud of what they had achieved, and rightly so; I think we have established that the workshop is suitable for children, especially brilliant ones like my three guinea pigs!

A golden snowdrop

Last week I finished (in both senses of the word – finished stitching and made up) a project which unfortunately I can’t tell you about yet because it’s been commissioned. But I was mightily pleased and relieved that it was done! So did I then rush back to my Canvaswork, in preparation for Saturday’s class? Uhm, no. It was quite a productive class (more about that in a future FoF), but I had to warn Kathryn the tutor that I had done very little homework and wouldn’t be able to do much for October’s class either. Instead the week was taken up with ordering supplies (cards and envelopes for kits, threads, printed fabrics), gathering materials and setting up one of the three models to be stitched for the Goldwork With Colour course I’m teaching at Rugby’s Percival Guildhouse later this year. (Yes, I am very late. Don’t rub it in. Panic is definitely hovering in the wings.)

Materials for the Goldwork course

The final project in the course (which I can therefore ignore for now) is a peacock, and will use lots of coloured metals and leather, some of which you can see in the box of bling above. It is intended to offer the students the opportunity to create their own version of the design by deciding which materials and techniques to use for the various parts of the peacock. But apart from a small warm-up project that doesn’t need a stitched model (unless I have time to spare) the students will start with one of a pair of or nué designs, choosing a snowdrop on gold or a forget-me-not on silver. I suppose the latter should really be called argent nué, but the term goldwork tends to cover anything metallic so we’ll stick with that. Or nué doesn’t take much in the way of materials: fabric, Jap or smooth passing (I’m using the latter in size no. 6), sewing thread to match the metal, and stranded cotton in whatever colours you need for your picture.

Materials for the or nué projects

But what is or nué? It is a technique in which metal threads are couched down to completely fill a shape, but using a variety of colours rather than just the usual matching thread – in other words, instead of making the couching as near-invisible as possible, some of it stands out from the gold background to form a picture. Only on that part of the gold which surrounds the picture is the metal couched with the usual golden-yellow sewing thread (or grey in the case of silver threads), in the usual bricked pattern of couching stitches about 3mm apart. The coloured couching is more dense, completely covering the metal threads. There is a related technique sometimes called Italian couching where shading is achieved by working the coloured stitches wider apart or closer together, but in or nué it is done by colour changes rather than variations in stitch density. It is possible to have quite sophisticated shading in an or nué design (some of the medieval examples are stunningly detailed), but often it uses a fairly simple palette in blocks of colour. I decided to keep the shading simple, as it will be the students’ first-ever attempt at this technique. And keeping the shading simple is easier in a design without too much detail. So my first step was to create a relatively simple outline of a snowdrop.

A simple snowdrop

Traditionally or nué is worked with the gold couched down in horizontal lines, but in modern pieces it is sometimes worked in a spiral. In order to present students with both options, I decided early on that the snowdrop would be couched horizontally, and the forget-me-not in a spiral. Now provided you start exactly in the centre, the spiral will more or less automatically form a circle; but keeping the horizontal threads horizontal, especially if you don’t start in the middle of the design and you’ve foolishly decided on an oval shape rather than the traditional rectangle, can be trickier. Fortunately, as the fabric will be covered completely it isn’t a problem to add guidelines. As for knowing when to use which colour couching thread, it is possible to have just the outline on the fabric and refer to an external colour picture, or to put coloured dots in the various blocks, but I chose to use colouring pencils to fill in the design. It doesn’t have to be beautiful, the shades don’t even have to match your thread colours closely – it just serves to show which colour goes where.

Guidelines to keep the gold straight The design coloured in to help with the shading

Another option is to print the colour picture onto the fabric, and I have in fact ordered printed versions of these two designs. It will be interesting to compare working this technique on two different fabrics – the one I chose for printing is a heavier weight than the one used above – and it will also give me the opportunity (time permitting…) to work the oval design in two ways: starting from the bottom with a pinched start (more of that below), or starting in the middle and working first one half and then the other. With the latter method it will be easier to keep the couched threads horizontal, but because you always work the couching stitches towards the previous line of metal thread it would mean stitching the top half differently from the bottom half. If I do get round to trying it that way I will report back!

For now I was ready to get the snowdrop hooped up, always an exciting moment as it signals the shift from designing and material gathering to actual stitching! It wasn’t until after I’d placed the fabric in the hoop in my usual way (screw at the top) that I realised I wanted to clamp the hoop in my Lowery stand so that the stand faced me, rather than having it by my side. So I rearranged the fabric, clamped it and started by fastening on the golden yellow thread and the first three colours, three shades of green. Because the picture is built up in lines rather than in blocks of colour, it is convenient to have needles with all the necessary colours on the go at the same time (another argument for a limited colour palette smiley). Needles with white and grey thread will be added once I get further up the design.

The project hooped up The hoop shifted, and the first colours fastened on

And then there is the gold thread. Because passing is practically always couched in pairs, you either have to have two reels from which you unwind the passing simultaneously, or if you have just one reel, you have to decide beforehand how much you are likely to need and cut two single lengths or one double length. I decided on the latter, partly because having two reels of passing attached to your stitching is quite cumbersome, and partly because I want to use a pinched start: double the thread, pinch it to make a sharp crease, couch it down with a single stitch over the crease, and then continue couching over the pair (shown below with Jap thread). It saves on plunging and oversewing, always a good thing in my book.

A single stitch over the crease of the doubled metal thread Couching over the pair

But how much would I need? I won’t bother you with my scribbled calculations of the width of a pair of passing, how many pairs would fill the shape, and how wide the lines would be on average along the oval, but it worked out at about 6 metres. I cut 7 metres to be on the safe side, doubled it, and wound it onto an old wooden bobbin which Mr Mabel had cut some bits off to make sure it couldn’t roll away. One thing to remember when winding metal threads like these is to wind them by turning the bobbin while holding the thread still; this ensures that it doesn’t get twisted, which in turn stops the metal covering (wire or foil) from working loose from the thread core.

Winding the passing threads onto a bobbin

Incidentally, if you look up or nué online or in books you will generally see that every horizontal line is cut, couched and plunged separately; sometimes the amount of plunging and securing is reduced by using a pinched start and only plunging the end of the line, making sure that consecutive lines are worked in opposite directions so the pinched starts are on alternating sides of the shape. This is a perfectly legitimate approach, but it is not one I have chosen to follow. As I mentioned before, I’m not a fan of excessive plunging and oversewing, and I feel justified in trying to avoid it as much as I can by the fact that those medieval embroiderers who produced such beautiful work did too – gold thread was gold thread in those days, and very expensive; they weren’t going to waste a good part of it on the back of the work! Instead, they used the back and forth method, plunging only when the shape had been filled or their metal thread ran out. What’s good enough for them is good enough for me smiley.

A box of lilies

Well, a box frame of lilies. Following Anita the tutor’s tip after last month’s shadow work class I got this frame from Hobbycraft – as they had a sale on, the discount almost covered the postage, which was a bonus. (Even better, when I told a friend from church who is an avid card maker, she said that any time I want something from Hobbycraft she’ll be happy to get it for me on one of her frequent trips there and save me paying any postage at all!)

The box frame from Hobbycraft

I was a little nervous about mounting this project; the material it was stitched on, silk organza, meant it couldn’t be stretched around a foam or mat board backing. Instead, Anita had explained, it would need to be attached to the mat that came with the frame using double-sided tape, which sounded a risky proposition but necessary for the required float-on-air effect. In order to put off the scary moment I started by taking the box frame apart to examine all its constituent parts, to wit the black frame itself, the glass (or more likely perspex), a white mat, a white spacer frame about a centimetre high, and the backing board. I also played with some materials to cover the backing board with; Anita said she’d used silver card, and I remembered some silver lurex in my stash. As I dug that out, I found some golden yellow satin dupion as well. I tried the project against both backgrounds and decided I liked the gold better as it made the flowers stand out more.

Dismantling the box frame Gold or silver as a background?

Time to stop shilly-shallying and tackle the actual framing. But oh my goodness, the fabric is so sheer and looks so fragile!

Very sheer fabric

First I glued the golden fabric to the backing board, less-shiny side up. While I waited for the glue to dry, I ironed the organza as carefully as I could, then attached double-sided tape to the mat. Peel off the backing, and carefully press the mat onto the fabric. I didn’t trim the organza right down to the mat, but left a border of about half an inch, on the grounds that it would give me something to hold on to should I need to reposition the fabric or pull it taut if it went slack. I then gently pushed it down into the frame, and inserted the spacer in such a way that the excess organza was caught between the frame and the spacer for extra security.

Double-sided tape on the back of the mat The mat positioned on top of the embroidery Fabric, mat and spacer inserted into the box frame

Now to add the fabric-covered backing board, the glue having had plenty of time to dry. But unfortunately, things had not quite gone to plan. Although it was the sort of white glue that dries clear, the only thing that was clear in this case was that that doesn’t mean it becomes invisible… On to Plan B – pull off the stained fabric, place double-sided sticky tape around the edges of the board, and stick on a new piece of fabric. Unlike the first time round I chose to trim it with a spare half inch around the edges, just in case it would come in useful. I wasn’t sure how it might, but you never know. I then placed the re-covered board in the frame and secured it with the little push-down clips. Done!

The glue-stained fabric Plan B: double-sided tape The re-covered board The frame completely assembled

Or not. The surplus fabric surrounding the covered backing board came in useful when I had to pull it from the frame because I had not taken into account that a woven fabric placed behind a see-through woven fabric is going to cause a dizzyness-inducing moiré effect…

An unforeseen moiré effect

I looked at the framed embroidery through half-closed eyes, I squinted at it sideways – there was no help for it, the backing fabric would have to come out. I remembered that Anita had backed hers with silver card, not fabric. There had obviously been solid reasoning behind that choice (or she was just lucky smiley). Not having any card of the right colour I experimented with some pale golden-beige felt from my stash to see if a non-woven fabric might work as well. It did, but the piece of felt I had wouldn’t cover the whole backing board. Then DH suggested I ask one of my paper-crafty friends if she had any golden yellow card. She did, and brought it round immediately. It was rather darker and yellower than both the felt and the original satin dupion, but it was worth a try.

Felt does not cause a moiré effect Felt, satin and card options

It worked, but my friend and I both felt it was on the dark side; the shadow work in the top and bottom leaves wasn’t quite so visible as with the lighter background. Another kind crafty friend (the one with the Hobbycraft habit in fact) to the rescue: she brought a box of card in various textures and shades of yellow to church, from which I picked three possibles to try out at home.

After all of which I decided that the darker card was the best option after all. Although the shadow work is a little less obvious, it is still visible; the warm shade sets off the whole design, and being that bit darker it does make the white lilies pop. So finally here it is, my framed shadow work, ready to be proudly displayed on top of the pianola!

The finished, framed piece

Green, green, green, and BEIGE!

And, to be fair, quite a few other colours as well, eventually. But as I was labouriously working my way through the dreaded Green Jumble in my RSN Canvaswork, some beige paving was the first thing to offer relief from the relentless succession of greens and more greens – green silk, green stranded cotton, green wool, green perlé; plain green, variegated green and blended green. Not quite 40 Shades of Green, but pretty close. With quite a lot of jumble still to fill in, I felt I needed a break. Some nice simple paving in a nice simple stitch would just fit the bill!

Sampling the paving stitch

I mentioned that paving in my last update, but mostly as it touched upon the tulips near it, so I thought I’d describe it in a bit more detail. As it happens, the paving turned out not to be as simple as I had imagined. For one thing, in my mind it was, well, paving-coloured. Beige. But closer inspection of my source picture showed it to be a mix of beiges, greys and blues, with a touch of white here and there. In order to achieve the matt texture I wanted I’d chosen Danish Blomstergarn (also called flower threads), an unmercerised cotton; the stitch I’d decided on was Oblique Slav worked in three threads, which offered scope for blending. When I first considered the paving I’d picked six shades of the Blomstergarn, but as I started stitching I realised that range wasn’t nearly wide enough to replicate the colours with any amount of accuracy. Back to my box of Danish delights to add a light blue, a light grey and another couple of beiges. Which turned out still not to be enough, so two more greys were added, bringing the number of shades to twelve. With up to eight needles on the go at any one time it wasn’t what you would call straightforward, but at least it wasn’t green smiley.

Twelve shades of Blomstergarn Eight needles in play

Along the way there was some unpicking because of an incorrectly worked stitch, straight compensating stitches added along the top of the paving to create a nice level edge, and a bit of overstitched shading, but in a lot less time than the green had been taking the paving was done! (OK, full disclosure – it wasn’t. As I continued with the green and the small tulips furthest towards the back I kept adding more bits of paving where I felt it should shine through the greenery and flowers. But most of it was done by this time.)

An incorrectly worked paving stitch Compensating stitches to neaten the edge Most of the paving done

After that, it was back to the green. Suffice it to say that it took a long time, and a lot of different blends (some including reds, pinks and yellows – the excitement!), and occasionally I saved my sanity by working on some more tulips, but eventually all the areas around the large tulips and leaves were filled. Although with the tutor I’d identified a few places where stems had to be added on top of the stitching, the green jumble was pretty much finished.

Green with a bit of pink! More tulips Red blended into the greens, and some stems needed The green jumble finished

You may have noticed in that last photograph that I had played around with ribbon to create two small tulips and a bud on the edges of the design, but the big ribbon-tulip finale would have to wait a bit while I started on a tree and a hedge. The tree, or more accurately clump of trees, on the right is going to be done in rice stitch – a cross stitch with four small diagonal stitches over the arms. This means that you can in theory get 6 colours or blends into any one stitch, making it a great choice for the airy look needed, as it could combine my sky threads with my tree threads. After sampling several options (including one with the crosses worked in different directions, which was voted down by Kathryn as too fussy) I’d agreed with the various tutors that I would do all the foundation crosses first, in blends that would set out the basic shape of the tree and the distribution of greens and blues; then create two trunks by means of wrapped wire over the top; and finally add the top stitches to create the fine detail. I would also work the hedge at the bottom of the trees, extended up to the mill. Well, I managed the tree foundation (in several blends of blue Caron Soie Cristale with white Madeira Lana and five shades of green Heathway Milano crewel wool) and the hedge (French knots in three blends of green) before I was seduced by the idea of really finishing the bottom half of the design for good and all, and getting on with the tulips!

Sampling rice stitch and trunks The foundation of the rice stitches that will make up the clump of trees A French knot hedge

This was the fun part: rummaging through my stash of silk ribbons, working out how to use the variegated ones to such an effect that it needed less fastening on and off, and “painting” the little flowers with one eye on the source picture and an Impressionist mindset.

Fastening on ribbons Lots of colours Adding some green as well The finished tulips

Before my floral extravaganza, I’d made a start on the mill in class, trying to recreate the grey upper part with its stark shadows in soft cottons, using several variations of gobelin stitch; and I’d also worked the door in dark green silk, but because of the way the top edge of the paving is stitched, it turned out to be impossible to make a smooth edge between it and the bottom of the door. I discussed it with Helen J, who suggested using stitches that stop just short of the paving and working a stitch over the top. Having done the shorter stitches I’m not sure I like the look of it so that may get unpicked.

The upper part of the mill Mill door, first try

And finally, the tree trunks. Two gauges of wire, which in the end unfortunately didn’t make that much of a difference, wrapped in a doubled strand of variegated brown. Secured at the beginning and end, and with an occasional stitch-through-the-canvas along the length of the wire.

Anchoring the first bit of wire at the back of the canvas Starting the wrapping Taking the wrapped wire through to the back The finished trunks

And that’s where I’ve got to. Now it will have to be put away for a bit while I concentrate on stitched models for classes and instructions for magazine articles. But I’m really pleased that after all this time, the bottom half is complete and I’ve made a good start on the top half. I’ll finish this module yet smiley!

Overview of the whole piece

Shadowy lilies

My RSN Certificate Canvaswork has been dragging on for three years and counting, I have three workshops and a six-week course to prepare for, and a magazine deadline is looming, so obviously what I urgently needed to do was go on a two-day class to learn shadow work!

When the RSN’s International Summer School programme went up on their website, I had a lovely browse without any intention of actually going on one of these courses. For one thing, they don’t teach these at their Rugby branch anymore and I don’t really like online classes (except for the self-paced ones), so it would mean travel and accommodation on top of the not inconsiderable cost of the class itself. Moreover, although some of the projects were gorgeous and I would have loved to stitch them, the ones I liked were all in techniques that I’ve had a good bit of experience in already. But then I came across Anita Harrison’s shadow work class, which was illustrated with a rather tantalisingly incomplete picture of the project and a sketch-plus-materials. I’d never done shadow work before. And I like lilies of the valley. I succumbed.

The shadow work class design

Mr Mabel and I decided to make a little holiday of it – I would go down on the Monday, do the course on Tuesday and Wednesday when he would join me at the end of class, and then we’d have another couple of days there to explore the area. I had found a lovely AirBnB just across the river in Thames Ditton with a riverside garden, I was going to be stitching in one of the most spectacular settings you can think of, and nearby was Bushy Park where you can see deer closer up than anywhere else I’ve ever been. On top of all that, the sun shone most of the time. Bliss!

A riverside garden to relax in Hampton Court Palace is a spectacular setting for a stitching class Deer galore in Bushy Park

To my surprise there were only two others besides me in the class, a lady from the Yorkshire Dales who had taken RSN classes before and a young textile student from America who had come for a week with her mother, two aunts and two grandmothers (they were exploring London while she was doing her embroidery). A nice transatlantic touch to our part of the International Summer School, and in case we were in danger of forgetting that that was what we were part of, there was a goody bag with a themed notebook, pencils, pin cushion and small padded project bag.

My two fellow students and the trainee tutor The contents of the goody bag

Having had a look in the goody bag, we got round to the Real Stuff: opening our kits and hooping up. The beautifully presented kit contained DeVere stranded cotton in two greens, white stranded cotton, a reel of blue sewing thread, needles and pins, a needle threader, a glassine envelope with transparent sequins and a green bead, and the fabric. This was an etheral-looking silk organza with the design already transferred onto it; it looked impossibly fragile but like most silk fabrics was actually remarkably sturdy, although it was rather prone to fraying around the edges. Our first task was to line up two small rectangles of organza and baste them behind the middle leaves; the picture shows just how sheer the fabric is.

The class kit Contents of the kit (minus fabric) Hooped up and a double layer of organza basted on

The essence of shadow work is that the stitching at the back of the work shines through and is as much part of the design as the stitching at the front; hence the translucent fabric. This also means, however, that everything you do at the back of the work will be visible at the front unless covered by other stitching. And that means that moving from one element to another is pretty much impossible – everything that is not immediately connected to something else has to be self-contained in its stitching – and that fastening on and off has to be done extremely carefully. You will notice that in some places the stitching looks a little heavier than the stitching around it; that is where a few tiny backstitches have been worked underneath the main stitching in order to secure it. Here you can see the first stage of the project, with the middle leaves fully stitched using fly stitch, stem stitch and whipped blanket stitch. The next step was going to be some rather scary cutting…

The middle leaves stitched

The two basted-on layers of organza had to be trimmed as close as possible to the blanket stitch outline of the leaves; challenging as the hoop made it difficult to get the scissors flat against the fabric, but taking the fabric out of the hoop would slacken the tension and present its own problems. At least with the main fabric held taut you could pull back the extra layers to give a clearer view of where you were cutting. Still rather nerve-racking though. After that, we were told to work the longest of the three stems before adding yet another layer of organza, this time behind the top leaves. Having one stem done meant that we’d be able to add at least one of the flowers while in class even if we didn’t manage to complete the stitching and trimming on the top leaves. Because the organza is a mesh a bit like silk gauze, I found it tricky to get a perfectly smooth curve on the stem stitch, but I was reassured by seeing that same effect in the tutor’s stitched model – seemingly that’s just how stitching behaves on this sort of fabric.

Trimming the extra layers of organza Adding a stem

The top leaves were outlined in blanket stitch (unwhipped this time) and the central part was worked in a stitch that is characteristic of shadow work, reverse closed herringbone (also known as double backstitch because of how it looks at the front of the work). It forms an outline of the shape at the front, with the herringbone filling showing through from the back. Depending on the size of the backstitches it can be airy or dense, and you can vary this along the shape, but Anita advised us to work it regularly on these leaves so that we got used to the stitch, and to do any varying on the two small leaves at the bottom of the design. She then demonstrated how to do the sequin flowers, and we all stitched one so she could see that we understood the process. And that was the end of the class! The rest would have to be finished at home.

Leaves in reverse closed herringbone stitch Anita demonstrates how to stitch the sequin flowers Hooped up at home to finish the project

Back home the first thing was some more scary cutting, trying to get the scissors as close as possible to the stitching without accidentally snipping anything, followed by stitching the remaining two stems.

Some of the extra organza layer trimmed Trying to get the scissors close to the stitching Stems in stem stitch

This, by the way, is how we were taught to fasten on: take the knotted thread down into the fabric about half a centimetre away from your starting point, work three teeny-weeny backstitches, snip the knot off and make sure your stitching covers the backstitches. Unfortunately it seems to be well-nigh impossible for them not to show a little bit, making those parts of the line look slightly heavier. It is particularly visible in the start of the small leaf, although it’s less noticeable at a normal viewing distance. In the small leaves I tried varying the length of the backstitches so that the herringbone is denser in the tips and lighter in the middle, and I like the effect.

Fastening on Varying the herringbone density

With all the leaves finished and everything that needed trimming trimmed, all that was left was the central sequin held on with a bead, and eight more sequin flowers. As all the sequins were transparent, fastening on and off had to be done as carefully here as everywhere else in the piece.

The central sequin and bead

When I say “all that was left”, I make it sounds quicker than it was. The pretty white flowers proved to be surprisingly fiddly and labour-intensive to work in such a way that nothing shows through that shouldn’t! Here’s how they are done. First, thread a sequin onto the end of a single strand of white cotton. Then tie a double knot around the sequin, and push the knot away from the edge. Position the sequin where you want it at the back of the work with the knot sitting at the back of the sequin, and holding it in place with your finger, bring the needle up through the centre. Work four stitches over the top half of the sequin, making sure that one of them covers the line made by the thread where you tied it to the sequin.

Thread the sequin onto the end of the thread Knot the thread around the sequin Postion the sequin and come up through the centre Work four stitches, making sure the tying-on line is covered

Next are the stamens. They look like pistil stitches, but they aren’t – they are worked in two parts. First a straight stitch starting from the centre of the sequin, then a French knot started about two fabric threads away, and taken down through the very end of the straight stitch. Then back to the centre to come up for the next straight stitch. After the third stamen, back to the centre to fasten off by going behind some of the stitches and making a knot as close to the centre as possible. Voilà, one lily-of-the-valley flower with no (or at least very little) thread showing through from the back!

The French knot pierces the straight stitch Fastening off The finished flower

And here is the finished project; I really enjoyed my first foray into shadow work, and although I can see the bits that could be improved I’m pleased with the result.

The finished project

Anita had mounted her model in a black box frame which made it look lovely and floaty, and she said it was actually quite a cheap one she’d happened to find at Hobbycraft smiley. When I checked whether they still did that frame, it turned out to be on sale at half price, which meant that even with the postage it was a very affordable way of showing off my shadow work. As I’ve only just finished the stitching I haven’t got round to the mounting yet, and I really should be doing a bit more Canvas homework first, but I’ll try and remember to show you my lily of the valley when it’s framed and ready to be displayed!

Minimal but meaningful

After a few false starts, could this short scribble be the re-ignition of FoF? If so, the title of this particular flight will turn out to be doubly appropriate. But I intended it to refer to the stitching I did today on my RSN Canvaswork. It wasn’t much, and in fact part of it was unpicking, but it has got me back into the project, and so however minimal my progress is, its significance is great – to me at least smiley. I will write in more detail about the interminable third module of my Certificate in a future FoF, but for now I present to you an extended tulip, and some modified paving.

Let’s begin by having a look at what needed modifying. The small picture shows part of the printed photograph I’m working from; it’s what I’m aiming to represent in canvas stitches. This means a lot of simplifying and stylising – canvaswork is not photo-realistic. Still, you don’t want to oversimplify, and that is rather what had happened on the left-hand side of the paving (orange arrows). In the photograph it is mottled, on the canvas it is a uniform brown blob, all the more noticeable because all the rest of the paving uses blended threads. And how I managed to squash that orangy-red tulip (light blue arrows) to about half its height I do not know, but it obviously needed extending. Finally, the bit of paving between that tulip and the one above it needed unpicking because I’d failed to keep the stitch pattern going (yellow arrow); the bottom three stitches had to be split in two to continue the diagonal line where the stitches meet.

The photo to aim for Things that need changing

For the brown blob the options were: unpicking and restitching with a blend instead of three threads of the same brown, or adding a few random stitches in a single thread of grey. The latter would mean that some of the stitches would consist of four threads instead of three. Would that be very noticeable? I suspected it wouldn’t. I was right. If you look very closely, you can tell (orange arrow). The assessors may well look closely enough to tell. But I am not going to unpick a perfectly good bit of paving just for that. I have learnt something important: I am not as much of a perfectionist as I thought!

Random grey stitches added to the brown paving

Next was the combination of the squashed tulip and the paving that didn’t have the right stitch pattern. Here I was lucky, not once but twice. First of all, the bit of paving that needed unpicking turned out to be at the start of a thread, which made it much easier to take out what needed taking out without disturbing the remaining stitches. The second bit of luck was the way the tulip worked out. When I’d pointed it out in class, the tutor had suggested first restitching the paving with the correct pattern and then extending the tulip over the top. I decided to go rogue and extend the tulip first. This turned out to fill almost the entire unpicked space, with only a very small bit of canvas still bare (blue arrow).

The tulip extended

Not only that, but a closer inspection of the photograph showed that some of the narrow space between the extended tulip and the one above it was actually leaf and stem rather then paving. A few green stitches, some of them partly over the top of the paving, sorted that. Finally I filled in a small area between the two largish pink tulips with paving in two blends (green arrow), and that was the end of my stitching session.

One more bit of paving

Judged by the number of stitches worked, or the area of canvas covered, it’s not much. But I sat down and worked on it, and when I got up I liked the look of it better than at the beginning. That will do me just fine.