A featherectomy

A few months ago I taught a “Goldwork with Colour” course at our local adult education centre, and you may remember that the stitched models for that course were, shall we say, a little late in appearing. With hindsight this turned out to be a good thing, as it meant I could stitch along with the students, who could see the projects in progress. However, it also meant that the designs, apart from the small Precious Heart, languished half-finished after the course ended. Finishing things for the sake of finishing has never been high on my list of priorities, but these were goldwork, and it seemed a shame to let all those nice materials go to waste. So once I got the magazine deadline and my canvaswork out of the way, I settled down to completing a snowdrop, a forget-me-not and a peacock.

The snowdrop at the end of the course The forget-me-not at the end of the course The peacock during the course

Not to overload you with goldwork (although there are worse things to be overloaded with) I’ll concentrate on the peacock today, and come back to the flowers in future FoFs – as I started this one I realised there was more to tell about these projects than I thought at first!

The peacock was the third and final project of the course, and from the start its tail was meant as an opportunity for the students to apply what they’d learnt about goldwork in their own way. They all did more or less the same thing on the body (appliquéd faux leather – choice of two colours – outlined in couched white opalescent 371 thread, silk shaded beak, chips for the head feathers, bead plus spangle – choice of gold or silver – for the eye) and the tail’s outline (more couched 371 thread, with a choice of colours for the three scalloped lines inside the tail), which got them to the stage shown above. They were then given a choice of metallic kid leathers, hollow purls, beads and more 371 thread and told to get on with it and have fun. And boy did they have fun smiley.

The students let their creativity rip!

I did work two of the tail feathers during the course, to demonstrate how to apply kid leather over padding, but I didn’t take pictures of that stage. Suffice it to say that’s what the tail still looked like a month or two later, when I finally got round to adding a few more: one with cutwork mixing a fine rough purl and a coarse wire check, with some metallic stem stitch around it to smooth out the edges, and one with chipping in two shades of rough purl using longer and slightly more wiggly chips than usual.

Tail feathers in leather, cutowrk and chipping

But what next? I’d already got kid appliqué, cutwork and chipping, and I didn’t fancy more couching. In a corner of my box of goldwork odds and ends I found some silver sadi check, an Indian goldwork thread much like bright check but bigger, and I combined that with “sprinkles” of rough purl. For the next feather, slightly against my better judgment, I decided on beads in a mixture of two greens and two blues.

Tail feathers in mixed chipping and beads

Right away I realised it wasn’t a good choice. The beads were very irregular, so difficult to pack in densely, and the whole look of the thing was just not, well, goldworky enough. Time for a featherectomy.

Brief digression about that term – I came across the word years ago in a piece of writing by the journalist James Cameron, describing a visit paid by King George and Queen Elizabeth (later the Queen Mother) to a South African ostrich farm during their royal tour in 1947. I’ve always loved the story so this is a good opportunity to share it. Cameron noted the very different personalities of the King and Queen, highlighted when the King was given a pair of clippers to cut a feather from one of the ostriches, which were bred for their plumage. “The King fumbled the operation and his tweezers nicked a quarter inch off the ostrich’s backside, at which the unlucky bird made a fearsome screeching hullabaloo from which we all retreated in terror. Enter the Queen, stage right, as usual in total smiling command. She took the clippers from her husband and there and then did an absolutely expert featherectomy. Snip!” She explained to Cameron, who happened to be standing near her, “We do a lot of gardening at home in the Palace. The King is good at the digging and the weeding. It is I who concentrate on the secateurs.”

Good to know that pruning skills come in handy if you are ever called on to collect some ostrich plumes. In my case, the offending peacock plume quickly succumbed to my small pointy scissors, ready to be transformed into something else. Because I had as yet no idea what to transform it into, I concentrated on the other remaining feather. I hadn’t consciously set out to create a certain colour pattern, but it now looked like a good idea to keep the three middle feathers in a turquoise/silver palette while doing the ones on the outside in purples and pinks. Not having any brilliant ideas I went for couching after all, combining lilac and pink 371 thread in what I hoped would be a two-tone spiral. Unfortunately the difference isn’t really visible in the finished article, but colourwise it still works so that was fine. For the remaining feather I dug out some dark blue-green twist, which I attached with invisible couching stitches (they are worked on the diagonal and disappear between the strands that make up the twist), leaving a gap in the middle to create a sort of yolk (they do look rather egg-shaped, don’t they?) of sadi chipping.

The tail feathers completed

And that completed the peacock. Well, in as far as a project like this is ever finished; you could easily keep adding bits and pieces until the entire tail is filled, but I have other projects to move on to – I am setting up the slate frame for my Silk Shading module!

The finished peacock

Did I say “finished”…?

In my celebratory FoF last Saturday I mentioned that in going through my close-up photographs, choosing illustrations, I’d noticed a missing stitch. Yesterday afternoon, replete with chicken pie and a friend’s delicious homemade lemon ice cream, I decided to put the missing stitch in. And that would be that! Except it wasn’t. Part of this, I fully admit, was just me being fussy. And at some point I will have to stop fussing or I will never get this mounted! But here is what happened.

Having shown off my finished-but-for-one-stitch canvaswork to the friends who’d come round for lunch I re-clamped it into the Lowery stand which for the past couple of days had held my or nué snowdrop, and got out the thread box containing a few left-over threads from my three-year project. Why I kept those few straggly bits of green, brown and blue in the small box destined for my silk shading colours after putting all the canvaswork threads back into their usual storage boxes I do not know, but I was very grateful for my eccentric decision as it meant I didn’t have to hunt through half the craft room to get the right threads. Time to take a close look at the missing stitch and decide what blend was needed. It was then that I noticed More Missing Stitches shocked emoji.

Missing stitches

Ignore the purple arrow for the moment, I’ll come back to that one. The orange arrow points to the stitch I noticed when writing the previous FoF. The yellow arrow points to another incomplete stitch which had managed to remain unnoticed. Or – I am inclined to overthink these things – had it been a design decision to leave that stitch without its top cross? Would I ruin the entire look of the thing by completing it? As I couldn’t remember it being a conscious decision the best thing seemed to complete it with the same blend as the other stitch, although in the end I did go for a three-quarter cross rather than the full cross as I didn’t want to cover up too much of the leather tree trunk.

Adding stitches All done!

Back to that purple arrow. It points to a stitch that was one of the last ones to be worked; it is slightly isolated, it needed only the top cross, in the photograph it shows as a light green part of the tree, and I happened to have in my needle a remnant of the light green wool I’d used for the more textured stitches a little lower down. I added some blue and worked the top cross. And although I didn’t mention it in FoF, or even admit it to myself, it bothered me every time I looked at it. It is blobby. It is fluffy. It is wrong. And I might as well do something about it. So I did. I unpicked the top cross, which fortunately wasn’t attached to any other stitches, and re-did it in a blend without wool. It is still a little chunky, but it blends in much better with its surroundings.

A blobby stitch The blobby stitch unpicked Restitched a little less blobbily

And so now I’m really done. Really. No more fussiness. Unless perhaps to re-do that stitch once more to make it less chunky… No! No, really done now. Look: the finished piece. At last smiley.

Really really finished Absolutely done

Blue sky thinking, strutting my stuff and trimming a hedge

Spoiler alert – yes, after well over three years my Canvaswork is finally finished! Bar the mounting, which with canvas is a challenge in itself and will be part of the assessment; but although I will of course do my best to do it as neatly as possible, to me it doesn’t feel like part of the embroidery. That, the part that counts, is done.

You may remember that the previous FoF ended with most of the sky filled in, but the remaining tree as yet just an understitched grid, and me not able to see how it was going to work.

Nearly there...

And so once again I looked for things to do that would help me avoid The Tree (which in my mind was beginning to take on Triffid-like qualities). The sky was the obvious thing. I’d noticed that there should have been some lighter blue blended into the section between the two top sails of the mill – there was some on either side of those sails, but none in that particular area, which looked like an oversight. Well, it was an oversight! I amended it by sneakily overstitching with a single strand of the second shade of blue; it may seem a little thing and hardly worth doing, but those few stitches make it look much more part of the rest of the sky.

Unblended sky Added blending

On to the last remaining bit of sky; here the change from blend to blend had to be a little more abrupt in places, where the sky in the original photograph had some hazy white across the blue.

Blends prepared for the remaining sky Blending the sky The sky completed

The only way I could avoid the tree any longer was by doing the overstitching on the mill, but I felt I really ought to cover the whole canvas first before doing those final details, so I gave myself a good talking to and got on with it. I started at the top using blue blended with brown to represent the branches showing through. After a few stitches it became clear that the blend was too thick and too brown, so they were unpicked and restitched. I blended a little green into the uprights of the foundation crosses, then more in the horizontals. That’s where I’d got to when my next class came round, where, rather surprisingly, it was just me and tutor Angela Bishop; a lovely surprise to begin the new year with, having a one-to-one class with the tutor who stood at the beginning of much of my RSN journey! We discussed initial ideas for Silk Shading, and then I got on with the tree. One of the things I’ve learnt during this module is to work like a painter, not charting but mxing and blending as I go, and on the whole I’m pleased with how that worked on this last tree.

The blend is too thick and too dark Working in the greens The foundation stitches finished The complete tree

Surely now it was time to get on with the mill? Well, no. I was keen to work on it, having discussed the various parts of it with Angela, but there were a few tweaks I wanted to put in first. One was the bush between the orange roof and the tree – the photograph had some dark bits in it which I hadn’t reproduced in the blends I used. So I sneaked a strand of dark into some of the foundation crosses of the Smyrna stitches; it’s almost imperceptible, and definitely difficult to show in a photograph, but like the added sky blending stitches it makes a difference when looked at from a distance. I also smoothed out the edge between the sky and the tree by lengthening some of the blue stitches and adding some small blue/green blended partial star stitches where the canvas wasn’t quite covered.

The bush needs some more dark in it The bush darkened and the edge between sky and tree smoothed

By the way, looking at the close-up pictures while writing this FoF I noticed a missing top half cross on one of the star stitches. Good thing it’s still framed up so I can put that in before mounting!

Anyway, yes, finally it’s time for the mill: the struts and balustrade of the gallery, and the sails consisting of the four wooden beams and the lattice. In order to simplify the design to make it more suitable for canvaswork I had decided after discussion with the tutors to leave out the sheets half-covering the sails, and the big beams sticking out from behind the cap. For the struts and balustrade I wanted to use perle #12 in white, but both Angela and I felt that it needed at least one other shade, probably a light grey. Going through my stash at home I found I didn’t have a grey, but I did have a cream and a pale greyish lavender, as well as some 12-weight Sulky threads. In the end I picked white and lavender perle and a grey Sulky. Angela had suggested securing the long struts by means of a stitch in the middle, worked in the invisible manner of attaching twist in goldwork, but when I had completed the struts I really liked the look of them attached only top and bottom, because it gives a more 3D effect than having them anchored in the middle, however invisibly; I’ll add a comment about that to the assessment notes I have to hand in, to show that it was a considered decision, not an oversight! The balustrade used the same three shades as the struts, except for the uprights which show up really bright in the photograph, so they were all done in white.

Possible threads for the struts and balustrade Ensuring equal distances between the struts The struts completed The balustrade completed

For the sails I pulled white ribbon through the canvas at the beginning and end of each beam. Angela had suggested couching with one or two stitches in thin silk along each side, but I remembered an idea I’d had earlier: why not secure the ribbon with the stitches making up the lattice? I did that and found that it pulled the ribbon to one side, so added a few stitches to the other edge of the ribbons after all. Getting the lattices reasonably regular was a very fiddly job (my first attempt was far too narrow and had to be unpicked), especially using a fine filament silk which snags on everything, but it did help that I had simplified it to have only two lines along the length of the sail instead of three as in the photograph.

Attaching the ribbon sails Securing the ribbons at the back of the work The first lattice is too narrow The mill completed

And that was all the stitching done! Now all that was left was some hedge trimming. In order to minimise the amount of fluff attaching itself to my stitching an old, torn pillow case was given an additional, custom-sized hole, and I was ready to get snipping. This was done very very gradually, because as we all know you can’t un-cut. I tried to do some shaping as well so that the bush on the left ended up with a higher pile on one side that on the other. Finally the immediate surroundings of the bushes were carefully dabbed with scotch tape wound around a finger to clear any stray bits of fluff – mustn’t leave any for the assessors to spot!

A protective sheet around the bush Gradual trimming The fully trimmed bushes Sticky tape has removed residue fluff

So here it is, my Canvaswork finished (apart from that one stitch I missed and will need to add, grrr). Because the light direction makes quite a difference to the look of the piece, here are two photographs for you to blend in your mind into one picture smiley

The finished piece, lit from the left The finished piece, lit from the top

Whatever the assessment is going to be, I’m happy with what I’ve produced in a technique I had not previously tried, and to which I did not take naturally. It’s been an interesting experience which has taught me a lot. I look forward to seeing what I will learn in the Silk Shading module.

So near and yet… a tree

The last time I updated you on my RSN Certificate Canvaswork module was back in August, when I had finished the bottom half of the design, a bit of mill, and the bottom layer of the rice stitches one day to become a light and airy tree. Oh, and some trunks. What has happened in the intervening four and a half months?

The state of my Canvaswork last August

Well, for one thing I removed the lasso that was holding the Turkey rug bushes on the left out of the way, as there is no more stitching to do on the bottom half, and if anything I now needed to push them down so I could work on the stitching above it. But that side of the design would come later – first there was the mill and the right-hand tree. I started with the door, which, you may remember, had some threshold trouble. Because of the way the paving was stitched, it was impossible to create a neat bottom edge just by using vertical stitches, so on the advice of the tutor I reworked it with shorter stitches and then worked a horizontal stitch over the bottom. My first attempt used the holes at the bottom of the stitches making up the edges of the door, forgetting that the pull of the stitch would make it look too short. Unpick and work it one hole either side of the door and yes, that looked better.

The door with a short threshold stitch The door with a long threshold stitch

More mill then – the bottom half, worked using the same thick soft cotton as the top half, in straight and slanted split gobelin stitch in four shades of brick. A small window and what looks like a white poster were added as well, with details like the window frame to be added later with thinner thread.

The bottom half of the mill in soft cotton

At this point I was alternating between mill and tree, partly because both were scary – the mill because I hadn’t really thought yet what to do about the cap, which has quite a bit of detail in it, and the tree because I couldn’t quite see how to recreate the airy look with the top half of the rice stitches. Still, it had to be done at some point, so I decided on a painterly approach: lots of needles threaded with a variety of blends, the photograph next to the bit of canvas I’m working on, and use whatever blend looks most suitable for each stitch. It took a while, and as always with canvaswork the painterly style is distinctly Impressionist, but a light and airy tree it is.

The light and airy tree complete Stitched and photographed tree side by side

Back to the mill, specifically the sails. It is the nature of the technique that you can’t get absolutely every detail in without getting overly fussy, and one of the design decisions has been to leave out the fabric that partly covers the sails of the mill. What is left is the four wooden “arms” and the lattice attached to each one of these, all of which will be stitched on top of a background of mostly sky. In my sampling I had stitched a foundation of white tent stitches on which the ribbon for the wooden arms would sit, and I decided to put that foundation in so that I would be able to work the sky all around that and still see where the sails should go.

Sampling the sails Sail foundation stitches

Now I could make a start on the sky, working from right to left. With Kathryn I had worked out a rough guide to where the colour changes and the stitch transitions were going to be, and because so far I had only sampled the three sky stitches in white perle cotton she asked me to do a sample in the blue Caron silks I’d be using on the real thing, to work out coverage. Then I put together the blends I intended to use – although the five Caron blues I picked make up a series, the three middle ones are very close together in shade while there is quite a gap between them and the darkest and lightest shades, so I couldn’t just change from one to another (some of the lighter blends also include a fuzzy white thread to mimic the hazy clouds). After that it was finally time to put in the first of the stitches that will make up one of the main features of the design, that bright blue sky.

Sky stitches sampled in blue silk The start of the sky

There are many challenges in that sky: the colour changes have to be gradual; the transitions from horizontal Milanese stitch to Hungarian grounding to Parisian stitch must not be abrupt, but with bits of one pattern extending into the next to prevent clear demarcation lines; the sky stitches should blend into the stitches of the elements they surround in a natural way. That last one is especially important when it comes to the two trees, as the stitches used in them are either made up entirely of diagonal elements (rice stitch, in the right-hand tree) or have a strong diagonal component (star stitch, in the as yet non-existent left-hand tree), while the sky stitches are all horizontal. Once or twice I found that I had to lengthen a sky stitch to encroach into the tree stitches, but eventually the right-hand tree was completely encased in sky and looking very comfortable!

Sky down the right-hand side of the tree Too straight a demarcation line The sky snuggles up to the tree A fully sky-encased tree

In between bits of sky Kathryn and I also looked at the bush on the left-hand side, above the two buildings and behind the main tree. I didn’t want to use more Turkey rug stitch as that would bring it forward too much, so I wondered about French knots like the hedge on the right. Kathryn felt that the area was too big for French knots and suggested an upright stitch with some texture to it, worked in the same threads as the Turkey rug bushes. Looking through my big canvaswork book I picked alternating smyrna stitch to sample, liked the look of it, and worked the bush with a bit of blue blended into the mix where the sky shines through the greenery. Some of the stitches are a bit too light compared to the photograph but I like the effect so I’m leaving them as they are.

A bush in alternating smyrna stitch

Back to the mill to add the gallery and the cap. The latter took me a few goes to get right, because at first it looked too chunky and I couldn’t work out how to get in the detail I wanted without doing the whole thing in tent stitch, but eventually some small overstitches did the trick.

The mill gallery The mill cap The mill cap with added details

After that, more sky. And more sky. And yet more sky. Anything to avoid having to work on that big tree on the left. I knew it would have couched leather trunks and foliage in star stitch, but whenever I contemplated actually stitching it my brain seemed to shut down. I decided to at least try and get those trunks done, and wonder of wonders, the trimmed-down leather thong (once used to hold together a set of leather coasters that were a present from a friend in Kenya) held down with irregular couching stitches in beige-brown blends of stranded cotton actually looks like a pair of tree trunks!

Leather tree trunks

With a certain desperation I started getting all the blends for the tree ready, in the hope that inspiration would strike. It didn’t. I decided on more sky. Strictly speaking you should work foreground elements before the background, and I’ve stuck to that fairly well, but Helen McCook had advised me to work some horizontal sky stitches inside the tree area to make sure it blended in well, and my excuse was that I had to make sure the pattern of the sky was continuous. Counting all the way from the blue on the right-hand side was obviously fraught with risk, so I compromised by working a thin line of sky along the top and then down along the left-hand side of the tree-that-wasn’t-there-yet.

Blends for the final tree Sky around the tree

I then ventured into some star stitches, only to find that they didn’t cover the canvas properly. A quick look at my sample cloth reminded me that it needed understitching which I hadn’t done. So I unpicked what I’d done, did the understitching in the blue blends I had prepared, and will add an extra strand to them for the upright crosses that form the foundation of the star stitches.

A few star stitches that don't cover the canvas properly The understitching complete

Still reluctant to get on with the foliage I stitched, yes, some more sky. I had noticed that my blending on the right-hand side was not as gradual as I would have liked – there is distinct banding. Not enough for me to unpick the whole thing smiley, but on the left-hand side I’m paying more attention to this, introducing new blends gradually and alternating stitches in two blends on any transition line.

Improved blending in the sky

And that’s where I am at the moment. My aim was to get the sky and that tree filled in before my next class, using our time off over Christmas and the new year. As the business has now re-opened and my next class is less than a week away, that may prove too ambitious, but I’m hoping for a productive Saturday. After that, all (haha…) that is left to do is trim the Turkey rug bushes, do the top stitching on the mill, and mount the work ready for assessment. And then on to Silk Shading!

Nearly there...

Stitching: The Next Generation

A Happy New Year to you all! And what better way to start a new year than by getting young people stitching? Last November/December I taught a metalwork embroidery course in Rugby, and for the first class I designed a small project to familiarise the (grown-up) students with the basic techniques of couching, plunging, chipping and attaching spangles. That went very well, with all of them creating a very personal version of the little copper heart within the 2-hour class time (although some of them added some finishing touches at a later date). I was seriously impressed with them!

The grown-up students' versions of the little copper heart

By then I had worked a couple of variations myself, one in copper like the students (see if you can spot where I missed a stitch…) and one in silver, and I was inspired to re-invent the little heart as a stand-alone project. I called it Precious Heart, and envisaged it as a combination of the original copper with silver and gold spangles. To me it would be a representation of the Trinity, with the reddish copper standing for the sacrifice of Jesus, the silver for the Holy Spirit and the gold for God who is King as well as Father. That version exists only on paper as yet, but I hope to stitch it soon.

Precious Heart in copper on ivory faux suede Precious Heart in silver on grey ultrasuede Precious Heart in three metals, drawing

Incidentally, stitching the first model I used a different colour sewing thread from the one I normally use with copper metals, because Sarah de Rousset-Hall had told me at the Knitting & Stitching Show that she always used brown rather than orange with copper, and saying that Sarah knows her goldwork is a bit of an understatement! Off to the Barnyarns stand I went to get a reel of brown Gutermann Sew All thread, but I wasn’t absolutely sure I liked it. Another Sarah, whose Golden Hinde stand was nearby, lent me some copper passing to take to the Barnyarns stand, where the gentleman in charge helped me match various Gutermann browns, oranges and coppers to the metal thread (really, stitchy people are too kind for words). I ended up purchasing Sarah de R-H’s brown plus a more chestnutty colour, and after using Sarah’s brown for the heart I worked a little couching experiment where the three different thread colours were used close together for comparison. The result? I prefer the chestnutty brown (middle) to both Sarah’s brown (closest to the heart) and my original orange (outer edge), so that’s what I’ll use in future.

Copper passing couched in three colours

You may wonder if I’m ever going to get to the young people I mentioned. Yes I am – it’s time to introduce you to my three guinea pigs! You see, as my adult students did so well completing the heart within two hours, I thought that besides turning it into a kit I might be able to offer it as a workshop at the Knitting & Stitching Show. The form for submitting workshops has a tick box to say whether they are suitable for children/young people, and I will only tick that box if a workshop has been tried out on one or more stitchers of tender years. Rather frighteningly my original guinea pig is now in her 20s, so I needed some new victims! I found them in three brave youngsters from our church, a 12-year-old (and her 37-year-old mother who was also interested in trying out metalwork embroidery), a 13-year-old (for whom I stitched a lockdown birthday card when she was 9) and her 10-year-old brother (the recipient of Septimus the Septopus). Time to get all my materials together – always an exciting part of workshop preparations! Halfway through those preparations the resident feline took up her position as well, ready to oversee proceedings.

The workshop materials Set-up (with tea) Set-up (with cat)

Everyone was given a piece of faux suede with the design drawn on, hooped up with backing fabric; sewing thread in three colours; a little velvet board; copper passing, bright check and wire check; and gold and silver spangles. There were also two non-goldwork bits: a piece of faux leather and a pair of magnets, for those who wished to turn their little heart into a brooch (as modelled here by Mr Mabel).

Precious Heart finished as a brooch

We started with a quick run-through of what we were going to do, and they all had a chance to take a closer look at the two models. By this time my boy guinea pig was beginning to look a little worried, but fortunately the middle girl reminded him (which I had meant to start by doing, but forgot) that this was a workshop to find out whether it was suitable for children their age, and that therefore it didn’t matter if they couldn’t do it. I couldn’t have put it better myself. Having been thus reassured, they set to their task undaunted (well, mildly daunted at most) and with fierce concentration. Needles unthreaded themselves, a few spangles made a bid for freedom, and some wire check got stretched before I could say “be careful not to stre… ah.” No matter, they were doing metalwork embroidery, and doing it very well!

The guinea pigs are concentrating Cutting, couching, threading

When setting an age limit for my workshops I tend to say “suitable for children 12 years and older”, which meant it was always going to be challenging for the 10-year-old guinea pig, and he did occasionally get a bit frustrated, saying, “I’m so bad at this” – but he cheered up when I told him that in the Middle Ages people would have to go through a 7-year apprenticeship to learn goldwork, and here he was doing jolly well after about an hour and a half of tuition smiley.

Now I’m sure you’d like to see what they produced! And I wish I had better pictures to show you; but I’d left my camera on the wrong setting, so they are all rather blurry. Still, they do show that each of them made their little heart their own. They all worked the passing outline, after which I showed them how to do chipping and attach spangles and told them to go and do whatever they liked – and this is what they liked:

The 10-year-old's heart The 12-year-old's heart The 13-year-old's heart The 37-year-old's heart

They were all very proud of what they had achieved, and rightly so; I think we have established that the workshop is suitable for children, especially brilliant ones like my three guinea pigs!